By Harry K. McEvoy
A concise, informative publication on "the game of the pioneers". Knife Throwing contains starting and complex throwing suggestions and covers every little thing from domestic perform to looking tools with actual directions. Readers will hurl hatches, tomahawks, the Gurkha Kukri, Bowies, and different knives.
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Take the adhesive-backed pin-point and move it three inches to the left, placing it at the nine o'clock position on the target face. Again, concentrate completely on that pin-point, which is your point-of-aim, and try to hit it squarely with each throw. Forget all about the true center of your target face. Think only of your point-of-aim, that little half inch pin-point. Much sooner than you realize, you will find that your knife is hitting almost dead center into the target face and that your problem is solved.
The recommended length for the hanging target is to measure your boards the distance between eye-level and knee-level. The hanging target suspended from and against a permanent frame is especially recommended to the serious knife thrower (Figs. 16, 17). It is constructed of three lengths of threaded two-inch pipe joined together by standard pipe "elbows" in the shape of an inverted u. The top bar need be only 18 to 24 inches long, with a heavy eye-bolt secured through the center of the pipe from which the target will be suspended in front of the frame.
Getting that pin-point accuracy, however, is another matter! Perhaps "pin-point" is the wrong term to use since most target faces are considerably larger than pin-points and usually range in size from a few inches in diameter to a foot or more in width. But even a circular target eight inches across is hard to stick consistently unless you develop and master a 34 + Knife Throwing_INT + 4/6/10 1:33 PM Page 35 "point-of-aim" technique for your knife throwing, similar to that employed by the archers of old with their longbows.